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EDITOR’S NOTE
My fight to ensure that this newsletter doesn’t devolve into a stream of only jackets continues. I managed to get a few trousers in the mix today, lest this become Today in Men’s Jackets.
There very well may be a day where I change the name of this newsletter momentarily and go down PhD-level rabbit holes to find the very best of each type of jacket. Peacoat, bomber, Eisenhower, trench coat, etc.
Lmk if there’s any appetite for that. I’d go into boutiques/stores and do some irl trials.
Anyway, let’s tap into today.
LUXURY
Accidental Set
Tokyo-based Auralee builds each collection from the fabric up, and this blouson is a good example of why that matters. The shell is 100% tropical wool, woven at high density to land somewhere between a suiting fabric and something you'd reach for on a warm evening. A full lining, zip front, and elastic hem and cuffs keep the structure relaxed without losing shape, and the oversized cut gives it room to wear over a shirt or a light knit.
The trouser is cut from the same tropical wool family — 100% wool with a cupro lining — and brings two front pleats that open into wide legs with a clean pressed crease down the front. Slanted side pockets and two back pockets keep it functional, while the belt loops and high rise read as proper tailoring from the waist up. The shade lands in a muted, dusty green that pairs with the blouson without needing to match it exactly.
WORKWEAR
Undyed Linen
Unbleached organic cotton canvas, no added dyes. The color here is just the cotton as it came off the plant. Enzyme washing softens the canvas without stripping its body, and because each piece skips the dye bath, the texture and tone vary slightly from jacket to jacket. The relaxed fit and durable stitching keep it in true workwear territory, and the natural off-white reads cleaner than you'd expect on a chore-style cut.
Same undyed, unbleached organic cotton canvas as the jacket, run heavier for a pant that can take real use. Double knees and triple-needle stitching at the stress points mean these hold up where cheaper canvas pants start to fail. The enzyme wash gives them a broken-in feel from day one. Pairs directly with the jacket above for a low-key head-to-toe.
FORMAL & WORKWEAR
Pure Class: Knitwear from Dehen
🚨🚨🚨For the first time in TIM history, I am giving one brand double category coverage. 🚨🚨🚨
There were just too many tasty knits in this lineup to leave out. Add to it that all of this stuff is made right in Portland, Oregon and has been since the mid-1900s. Simply loving what’s going on with this brand.
Portland's Dehen has been knitting on the same machines since the 1940s, and this cardigan is what that means in practice: 100% worsted wool run through a four-end jersey knit that builds up real density without going stiff. The 1950s six-button front and rib trim at the cuffs and hem keep it structured, and the weight means it holds its shape wash after wash. It’s sharp enough to layer under a sport coat and relaxed enough to wear open over a shirt on a Friday.
This is a sweater that wears like a coat and holds its shape like one too. The U.S. military's pre-WWII submariner jacket is the template here, and Dehen's connection to it is personal: founder William L. Dehen served as a Navy submariner. The shell is 100% worsted wool in the same heavy four-end knit as the cardigan, with two flap-front waist pockets, a buttoned collar latch, fold-back cuffs, an interior chest pocket, and a locker loop.
The full-zip version of Dehen's iconic motorcycle sweater, made from 100% worsted wool on vintage 1940s machines and fully lined in satin so it slips on clean and sits smooth against skin (can’t be understated how lit this is). A two-way brass zip, stand collar, interior elbow patches, and a chest pocket inside give it real utility beyond the look. Available in Loden (above) and Brown (below), both earth tones work across seasons and sit well next to denim or chino.
ONE LAST THING….
Please Watch
You know that feeling when you’re one or two episodes into a TV show and you just already know it’s a banger?? That’s how I felt after like 20 minutes of this show on Apple TV.
I watched Season 1 over two years ago, and now Season 2 is carrying the baton extremely well. French countryside, Tokyo, wine, and a quest. 👨🍳’s💋
My sister started S1 a week ago and a direct quote after watching an epic mid-season flashback episode was: “I felt like I was on hard drugs“
Let Drops of God course through your veins this weekend…
As always, thanks for reading!
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