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EDITOR’S NOTE
People born after 2000 have this awful tolerance for noise pollution. They can have sped up rap music, screaming, bickering ESPN talking heads, video game streamers — all piped through an iPhone speaker on full blast. And they’re just okay with it… at any hour of the day. I find it disgusting.
^ This feels like a tweet, by the way. I wonder if there’s any appetite for TIM twitter. I just couldn’t promise that the fashion:takes ratio would be >1.
Anyway, let’s tap into today.
LUXURY
Scottish Cashmere Tops
Colhay's makes this polo from 100% 2-ply cashmere spun by Todd & Duncan at their Loch Leven Mill in Kinross, Scotland, one of the most respected yarn mills in the world. The collar is knit using a milano stitch, a more labor-intensive method that gives it enough structure to hold its shape under a sport coat without going stiff like a dress shirt. Small matte horn buttons from Italy keep the look clean and low-key, and the body tapers slightly from chest to hem so it sits neatly without bunching at the waist. Available in seven colors, and worth sizing up as this one runs small.
Named for Jean-Paul Belmondo, the French New Wave actor who made the turtleneck an act of casual cool, this rollneck is made in the Scottish Borders from 100% 2-ply cashmere yarn by Todd & Duncan. The tall roll collar has real presence and the slim fit tapers at the body to cut a clean line without squeezing. Colhay's knits this tightly and hand-links the seams so it starts with a firm hand and softens with each wear, the kind of piece that gets better the more you use it. Size up from your usual.
WORKWEAR
Bona Fide Hiking Gear
Topo Designs built this hoodie for long days in the sun, using a recycled polyester blend with a grid interior that lets air move while the fabric blocks UV rays at a UPF 50+ rating. The scuba hood, which has no drawcord and fits close to the head, keeps it from bunching up under a hat or helmet, and thumb loops lock the sleeves in place when you need them. A zip chest pocket gives you somewhere to stash the small stuff. Functional!
The Dirt Pants are made from 8.2 oz organic cotton with 2% spandex that’s garment-dyed. The straight fit has an articulated knee so you can move without the fabric pulling, and a hidden internal zip pocket at the back right keeps a card or key secure on the trail. Side seam pockets, back patch pockets, a drawcord waist, and a hem with adjustment tabs round out the details. Made in India.
STREETWEAR
Australians getting after it!!!
Sydney's Pass~Port built this flowy jacket around a 100% nylon shell with a water-resistant bonded membrane and water-resistant zips to keep rain out without adding a lot of weight. The hood and waist each have synch tabs so you can dial in the fit on the fly, and underarm zip openings let air out when you're moving hard. Reflective piping and embroidered details add just enough edge to remind you this isn't a hardware store rain jacket.
Is this a literal perfect blank hoodie??? The short answer is no b/c it’s not 100% cotton (it’s 65%), but it’s got almost everything I want structurally in a hoodie:
Off-white (they call it “Ice Marle” which I’m into)
Hooded
Drawstring
Kangaroo pouch
Slightly boxy
All that and they’re not raking you over the coals on price. It’s just above a hundred bucks. I’m geeked. Great, great looking product for me.
FORMAL WEAR
Great Trench
It’s Trench weather here in April. And a Trench is really something you should only be buying once in at least a decade. Ideally once in your lifetime. Hence this number…
Kaptain Sunshine makes this trench coat from a melange gabardine woven with extra-long staple cotton, giving it a surface texture that gets better with each wash. The A-line shape is clean and relaxed, and the one-piece raglan sleeves, where the sleeve runs in a single cut up to the collar instead of joining at the shoulder, let the coat hang and move without any pulling at the arms. A full cotton lining keeps it smooth against whatever you have on underneath. Made in Japan.
ONE LAST THING….
Getting out in front of the “Gilet”
It’s come to my attention that in Europe, this is called a “Gilet” (pronounced jee-lay). Let me be very clear straight away: a “Gilet” is a vest. More specifically, it is a Private Equity Vest (PEV).
Readers of TIM will know that the editorial board’s stance on the PEV, especially the Peter Millar and Patagonia varietals, is hardly favorable. As such, the news of this transcontinental corporate double speak is very sourly received. I am upset to hear that anyone outside the ranks of international finance thinks that this is “men’s fashion.” It is not.
PEV is a uniform for people that go to Davos, over-priced midtown steakhouses, and summer homes/pied-à-terres no more than 183 nights a year. [Insert Zohran Mamdani quip here.] A uniform in the same way that scrubs are for a doctor, sweatpants are for a college kid, and skinny jeans are for millennial white women. There’s no conscious decision making. It’s just identity. It’s automatic (still is). What it’s not is men’s style/fashion.
It’s time to broaden the Tenth TIM Commandment:
Any sleeveless garment for the upper body usually worn over a shirt is a Private Equity Vest (PEV), and its wearers are to be derided publicly.
I haven’t written the Ten TIM Commandments but I definitely will if there’s appetite for that.
Okay, musing done. Bye.
As always, thanks for reading!
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